Why This Route?
Jiufen and Shifen are the perfect pair for a day trip out of Taipei. One is a misty mountain town full of old-world charm. The other has railway tracks running through a street where you can float lanterns into the sky. You also pass the Golden Waterfall and Yin-Yang Sea along the way. The whole loop takes about eight hours and starts just one hour from Taipei.
If this is your first time in Taiwan, put this route at the top of your list.
Highlights
🏮 Jiufen Old Street: Studio Ghibli's Inspiration
📷 Photo by Nat Chen (@nat0408) on Unsplash
Jiufen got famous thanks to the 1989 film "A City of Sadness." Today it draws visitors for its stone alleys, hillside tea houses, and rows of red lanterns. Many say it inspired Miyazaki's "Spirited Away." Studio Ghibli has never confirmed this, but walk down Jishan Street and you will see why people make the connection.
Must-Eat Foods:
- Ah-Gan Auntie Taro Balls. The most well-known taro ball shop in Jiufen. Grab a bowl and eat it at the hilltop with ocean views.
- Grandma Lai's Taro Balls. The other classic spot. Slightly chewier texture, equally loyal fans.
- Ah-Lan Grass Cake. Old-school rice cakes in savory or sweet flavors. Cheap and local.
- Jiufen Teahouse. Sip Oriental Beauty tea inside a building that is over a hundred years old. The sea view from the window is hard to beat.
🎆 Shifen Old Street: Sky Lantern Wishes on Railway Tracks
📷 Photo by Bas Glaap (@basglaap) on Unsplash
Here is what makes Shifen different from any other old street in Taiwan: a train rolls right through the middle of it. Between trains, you stand on the tracks, write your wishes on a paper lantern, and watch it rise into the sky. It sounds simple. It stays with you for a long time.
Sky Lantern Tips:
- Red lanterns are the most popular single color. They stand for happiness.
- Four-color lanterns let you write a different wish on each side.
- Shop staff help with photos and lighting the lantern.
💧 Shifen Waterfall: Taiwan's Niagara
📷 Photo by James Virtudazo (@jamesvrtdz) on Unsplash
Shifen Waterfall is about 40 meters wide and drops 20 meters. It is the largest curtain-style waterfall in Taiwan. When the water is heavy, you can feel mist on your face from the viewing deck. The walk from the old street takes 15 to 20 minutes on a flat, easy path.
Photo Tips: The lower viewing deck gives you the best wide shot of the falls. May through September is rainy season, when the water is at its strongest. Bring a waterproof bag for your phone. The mist gets everywhere.
✨ Golden Waterfall & Yin-Yang Sea
📷 Photo by Chromatograph (@chromatograph) on Unsplash
The Golden Waterfall looks like liquid gold pouring down a hillside. Minerals in the rock oxidize and turn the water a deep amber color. It shines brightest in the afternoon sun. Nearby, the Yin-Yang Sea is split in two colors: golden brown on one side, deep blue on the other. Acidic mineral streams flow into the ocean and create the dividing line. Both stops are roadside. No hiking needed.
📷 Photo by Andy Kuo (@chyi826) on Unsplash
Photo Tips: Visit the Golden Waterfall in the afternoon for the best golden glow. For the Yin-Yang Sea, walk to the raised viewpoint near the Shuinandong parking lot. From there you can capture the color split in a single frame.
Suggested Itinerary
Morning — Sky Lanterns at Shifen
- 09:00 Depart from Taipei hotel
- 10:00 Shifen Old Street — write wishes, release sky lantern (~45min)
- 10:50 Walk to Shifen Waterfall (~15min trail)
- 11:10 Enjoy the waterfall views (~40min)
Afternoon — Explore Jiufen
- 12:00 Drive to Jiufen (~30min)
- 12:30 Lunch along Jiufen Old Street
- 13:30 Explore Jishan Street, Shuqi Road, Shengping Theater (~2hrs)
- 15:30 Afternoon tea with ocean views
Evening — Natural Wonders
- 16:15 Golden Waterfall (5min drive, ~15min stop)
- 16:40 Yin-Yang Sea viewpoint (~10min)
- 17:00 Return to Taipei (~1-1.5hrs)
Practical Tips
- Best Season: Year-round, but autumn/winter (Oct-Dec) is most atmospheric with mountain mist
- Avoid Crowds: Weekdays are much quieter; on weekends, depart before 9AM
- Wear: Comfortable walking shoes — Jiufen is all stairs. Bring a light jacket (3-5°C cooler than Taipei)
- Bring Umbrella: Jiufen is rainy year-round, especially during northeast monsoon season
- Best Photo Time: Shuqi Road stairs look best at 4:30-5:30PM when lanterns light up
More Routes to Explore
- Yehliu, Shifen & Jiufen Day Trip — Adds Yehliu Geopark to the mix
- North Coast Day Trip — Cruise the North Coast highway all the way to Tamsui
- Yangmingshan Day Trip — Taipei's nearby volcanic landscape and flower fields
🚌 Public Transit Option
No private car? No problem! Here's how to visit Jiufen and Shifen by train and bus — perfect for budget travelers or those who enjoy independent travel.
Suggested Itinerary
| Time | Activity | Transport |
|---|---|---|
| 08:00 | Depart Taipei Main Station | Take **TRA Local Train** to Ruifang (~36 min, NT$57) |
| 08:50 | Transfer at Ruifang Station | Switch to **Pingxi Line train** to Shifen (~26 min, NT$20) |
| 09:30 | Arrive at Shifen | Release sky lanterns, explore old street, walk to Shifen Waterfall (~1.5 hrs) |
| 11:00 | Leave Shifen | Take **Pingxi Line train** back to Ruifang (~26 min, NT$20) |
| 11:40 | Transfer at Ruifang Station | Take **Bus 788** to Jiufen Old Street (~15 min, NT$15) |
| 12:00 | Arrive at Jiufen | Lunch, explore old street, tea at a hilltop teahouse (~3 hrs) |
| 15:00 | Jiufen Old Street bus stop | Take **Keelung Bus 1062** direct to Taipei Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT (~1 hr, NT$101) |
| 16:00 | Back in Taipei |
💡 Fares shown are 2026 reference prices. Actual prices may vary — please check official sources.
Charter Car vs Public Transit
| Public Transit | Charter Car | |
|---|---|---|
| Itinerary | Fixed routes, tied to schedules | Fully customizable, stop anywhere |
| Attractions | 2-3 spots (limited by transfers) | 4-5 spots (including Golden Waterfall, Yin-Yang Sea) |
| Comfort | Carry your own luggage, wait in line | Door-to-door pickup, luggage stays in the car, A/C |
| Best for | Backpackers, solo travelers, budget-conscious | Families, elderly, heavy luggage, quality-focused |
| Waiting | Pingxi Line runs ~once per hour | No waiting, dedicated driver throughout |
| Remote spots | Golden Waterfall & Yin-Yang Sea are hard to reach | Easy access, no bus route restrictions |
Things to Note
- Pingxi Line runs infrequently: About once per hour — miss it and you wait an hour. Check the timetable in advance
- Return bus from Jiufen: On weekends, buses can be standing-room only. Leave before 15:00 to avoid the rush
- EasyCard is essential: Works on all trains and buses — no need to buy individual tickets
- Golden Waterfall & Yin-Yang Sea: Difficult to reach by public transit. If interested, take Bus 788 to "Gold Museum" stop and walk
- Rainy weather: Mountain areas get frequent rain. Bring an umbrella and watch your step on Jiufen's wet stone stairs