Why This Route?

Jiufen and Shifen are the perfect pair for a day trip out of Taipei. One is a misty mountain town full of old-world charm. The other has railway tracks running through a street where you can float lanterns into the sky. You also pass the Golden Waterfall and Yin-Yang Sea along the way. The whole loop takes about eight hours and starts just one hour from Taipei.

If this is your first time in Taiwan, put this route at the top of your list.

Highlights

🏮 Jiufen Old Street: Studio Ghibli's Inspiration

Red lanterns and stone steps of Jiufen Old Street 📷 Photo by Nat Chen (@nat0408) on Unsplash

Jiufen got famous thanks to the 1989 film "A City of Sadness." Today it draws visitors for its stone alleys, hillside tea houses, and rows of red lanterns. Many say it inspired Miyazaki's "Spirited Away." Studio Ghibli has never confirmed this, but walk down Jishan Street and you will see why people make the connection.

Must-Eat Foods:

Ah-Gan Auntie Taro Balls. The most well-known taro ball shop in Jiufen. Grab a bowl and eat it at the hilltop with ocean views.
Grandma Lai's Taro Balls. The other classic spot. Slightly chewier texture, equally loyal fans.
Ah-Lan Grass Cake. Old-school rice cakes in savory or sweet flavors. Cheap and local.

Jiufen teahouse — sipping tea with ocean views in a century-old building

📷 Photo by Ricky LK (@rickyrynselo) on Unsplash

Jiufen Teahouse. Sip Oriental Beauty tea inside a building that is over a hundred years old. The sea view from the window is hard to beat.

Photo Tips: Head to the stone stairway on Shuqi Road. That is the classic shot. Come around 5 PM when the lanterns turn on. Weekdays are much less crowded, so you can take your time framing the photo.

🎆 Shifen Old Street: Sky Lantern Wishes on Railway Tracks

Sky lanterns floating above Shifen railway tracks 📷 Photo by Bas Glaap (@basglaap) on Unsplash

Here is what makes Shifen different from any other old street in Taiwan: a train rolls right through the middle of it. Between trains, you stand on the tracks, write your wishes on a paper lantern, and watch it rise into the sky. It sounds simple. It stays with you for a long time.

Sky Lantern Tips:

Red lanterns are the most popular single color. They stand for happiness.
Four-color lanterns let you write a different wish on each side.
Shop staff help with photos and lighting the lantern.

💧 Shifen Waterfall: Taiwan's Niagara

Shifen Waterfall — Taiwan's largest curtain waterfall 📷 Photo by James Virtudazo (@jamesvrtdz) on Unsplash

Shifen Waterfall is about 40 meters wide and drops 20 meters. It is the largest curtain-style waterfall in Taiwan. When the water is heavy, you can feel mist on your face from the viewing deck. The walk from the old street takes 15 to 20 minutes on a flat, easy path.

Photo Tips: The lower viewing deck gives you the best wide shot of the falls. May through September is rainy season, when the water is at its strongest. Bring a waterproof bag for your phone. The mist gets everywhere.

✨ Golden Waterfall & Yin-Yang Sea

Yin-Yang Sea — where golden meets deep blue 📷 Photo by Chromatograph (@chromatograph) on Unsplash

The Golden Waterfall looks like liquid gold pouring down a hillside. Minerals in the rock oxidize and turn the water a deep amber color. It shines brightest in the afternoon sun. Nearby, the Yin-Yang Sea is split in two colors: golden brown on one side, deep blue on the other. Acidic mineral streams flow into the ocean and create the dividing line. Both stops are roadside. No hiking needed.

Aerial view of the Yin-Yang Sea coastline 📷 Photo by Andy Kuo (@chyi826) on Unsplash

Photo Tips: Visit the Golden Waterfall in the afternoon for the best golden glow. For the Yin-Yang Sea, walk to the raised viewpoint near the Shuinandong parking lot. From there you can capture the color split in a single frame.

Suggested Itinerary

Morning — Sky Lanterns at Shifen

09:00 Depart from Taipei hotel
10:00 Shifen Old Street — write wishes, release sky lantern (~45min)
10:50 Walk to Shifen Waterfall (~15min trail)
11:10 Enjoy the waterfall views (~40min)

Afternoon — Explore Jiufen

12:00 Drive to Jiufen (~30min)
12:30 Lunch along Jiufen Old Street
13:30 Explore Jishan Street, Shuqi Road, Shengping Theater (~2hrs)
15:30 Afternoon tea with ocean views

Evening — Natural Wonders

16:15 Golden Waterfall (5min drive, ~15min stop)
16:40 Yin-Yang Sea viewpoint (~10min)
17:00 Return to Taipei (~1-1.5hrs)

Practical Tips

Best Season: Year-round, but autumn/winter (Oct-Dec) is most atmospheric with mountain mist
Avoid Crowds: Weekdays are much quieter; on weekends, depart before 9AM
Wear: Comfortable walking shoes — Jiufen is all stairs. Bring a light jacket (3-5°C cooler than Taipei)
Bring Umbrella: Jiufen is rainy year-round, especially during northeast monsoon season
Best Photo Time: Shuqi Road stairs look best at 4:30-5:30PM when lanterns light up

Jiufen & Shifen Day Trip